An oil cleanser can dissolve makeup and sunscreen, but plain oil may leave a heavy film. Polysorbate 80 helps this shea-based balm disperse when water is added, creating a light milky rinse. Cetyl alcohol gives the product a scoopable balm texture without waxiness.
Formula: 100 g batch
| Ingredient | % | Weight |
|---|---|---|
| Lightweight cosmetic oil of choice | 50% | 50 g |
| Shea butter | 25% | 25 g |
| Polysorbate 80 | 15% | 15 g |
| Cetyl alcohol | 9.5% | 9.5 g |
| Vitamin E (antioxidant) | 0.5% | 0.5 g |
| Total | 100% | 100 g |
This version is fragrance-free to make it easier to use around the face. Vitamin E is an antioxidant, not a preservative.
Equipment
- Digital scale
- Heat-safe beaker
- Water bath
- Silicone spatula
- Clean, completely dry jar
Method
- Sanitize and dry. Clean the workspace and tools, then allow everything to dry completely.
- Combine the heated phase. Weigh the lightweight oil, shea butter and cetyl alcohol into a heat-safe beaker.
- Melt gently. Heat in a water bath until uniform, stirring occasionally.
- Add Polysorbate 80. Remove from heat and stir it in slowly until the mixture is clear and even. Avoid vigorous mixing, which can introduce bubbles.
- Finish and fill. When the balm has cooled but remains fluid, mix in vitamin E. Pour into the dry jar and let it set overnight.
How to use
With dry hands, massage a small amount onto a dry face. Wet the fingertips and continue massaging as the balm turns milky. Rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water. If desired, follow with a gentle water-based cleanser.
Texture adjustments
- Too hard: reduce cetyl alcohol by 2–3% and add the same amount to the liquid oil.
- Too soft: increase cetyl alcohol by 2–3% and reduce the liquid oil.
- Rinses too richly: test a small increase in Polysorbate 80 while reducing oil by the same amount.
- Rinses too quickly: reduce Polysorbate 80 slightly and increase liquid oil.
Polysorbate 80 performance varies with the oil blend, so make a 30 g pilot batch before scaling up.
Why the balm can look cloudy
Unrefined shea butter and different carrier oils naturally change color and clarity. Small crystals or graininess can also form when shea butter cools slowly or experiences repeated temperature swings. To reduce graininess, melt the shea fully, cool the filled jar promptly at room temperature and avoid storing it near a sunny window or heater.
Storage and safety
This formula is anhydrous, but fingers can introduce water. Use clean, dry hands or a spatula, close the lid promptly and discard the balm if its smell, appearance or texture changes. Avoid direct eye contact and patch test before regular use. It is not intended to treat a skin condition.
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