This compact cleansing bar uses sodium cocoyl isethionate (SCI) for a creamy lather and white kaolin clay for a smooth, elegant feel. Unlike traditional high-pH soap, an SCI-based bar can be formulated closer to the skin-friendly acidic range. The formula is concentrated, so a little goes a long way.
Formula: 100 g batch
| Ingredient | % | Weight |
|---|---|---|
| SCI powder | 45% | 45 g |
| White kaolin clay | 20% | 20 g |
| Cetyl alcohol | 15% | 15 g |
| Shea butter | 10% | 10 g |
| Vegetable glycerin | 9% | 9 g |
| Skin-safe fragrance, optional | 0.5% | 0.5 g |
| Citric acid solution, as needed for testing* | 0.5% reserve | up to 0.5 g |
| Total | 100% | 100 g |
\*Check the diluted-bar pH before making any adjustment. Do not add dry citric acid directly to the finished bar.
Important powder safety
SCI and kaolin are fine airborne powders. Work in a well-ventilated area, wear a properly fitted particulate mask, use eye protection and gloves, and mix gently. Do not use a whisk or anything that throws powder into the air.
Equipment
- Digital scale
- Heat-safe beaker
- Water bath
- Silicone spatula
- Gloves, eye protection and particulate mask
- Small silicone mold
- pH strips suitable for cosmetics or a calibrated pH meter
Method
- Pre-wet the powder. In a heat-safe beaker, slowly combine SCI with vegetable glycerin until the powder is damp and no longer dusty.
- Add the structuring ingredients. Add cetyl alcohol and shea butter.
- Heat gently. Place the beaker in a water bath. Stir and press the mixture against the side of the beaker as the fatty ingredients melt. SCI may not become completely liquid; aim for a cohesive, moldable paste.
- Add kaolin. Remove from heat and fold in the kaolin slowly. Add optional fragrance only after the mixture has cooled slightly.
- Mold firmly. Press the warm paste into the mold, eliminating gaps. Let it harden for 24–48 hours before unmolding.
- Check pH. Make a 10% dilution by dispersing 1 g of the finished bar in 9 g of distilled water. Test according to your meter or strip instructions. A mildly acidic target around pH 5–6 is commonly preferred for a facial syndet. If adjustment is required, reformulate carefully rather than guessing.
How to use
Wet the bar and hands, build a small amount of lather between the palms, then massage the foam over damp skin while avoiding the eye area. Rinse thoroughly and allow the bar to dry on a draining dish.
Why each ingredient is here
- SCI: creates dense, creamy foam and provides the primary cleansing action.
- Kaolin: improves slip, appearance and the dry-touch feel of the bar.
- Cetyl alcohol: gives structure and a smoother glide; it is a fatty alcohol, not the drying alcohol found in some sprays.
- Shea butter: adds richness and helps reduce a brittle feel.
- Glycerin: binds the mixture and supports a comfortable after-feel.
Troubleshooting
The mixture crumbles. It may be too cool or insufficiently bound. Warm gently and press firmly. For the next batch, increase glycerin by 1–2% while reducing kaolin by the same amount.
The bar stays soft. Allow more drying time. If it remains soft, reduce glycerin slightly or increase cetyl alcohol.
The bar feels too cleansing. Use less, shorten contact time or reduce SCI in the next tested version. Any formula change requires another pH and performance check.
Safety and quality notes
Avoid inhaling raw powders and avoid direct eye contact. Patch test before regular use. Keep the bar dry between uses and replace it if its odor, color or texture changes. A formula made for sale needs stability, microbial, packaging and safety evaluation.
Shop the ingredients
- SCI Powder for Shampoo Bars & Cleansing Bars
- White Kaolin Clay
- Cetyl Alcohol Granules
- Vegetable Glycerin
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